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PHOTO COURTESY OF LEEDS CASTLE

BY DAVID COHEN

I have always been fascinated with English culture and history. So when I was asked to visit the South East of England I didn’t hesitate for a minute. This region is one of the most important in English history. Going all the way back to the days of King Henry VIII, Henry II and even King Arthur — it’s all here in southeastern England. The south east region is known as the Garden of England, and after a few days of touring the coastline you will realize why. This part of England exceeds all expectations. From castles to good food to spas, this trip can be one of the best you’ll ever take, especially if you decide to go with your partner and make it a romantic getaway.

We spent the first two nights in Ashford, Kent at the 15th-century Eastwell Manor hotel near the famous city of Canterbury. With great expanses of old dark wood, candle-laden chandeliers and heavy stone fireplaces, this mansion felt a bit snobby, so stereotypical of the English upper class. Surrounded by acres of luxuriant green, you immediately feel separated from your daily routine and the hustle of the city. The estate’s formal gardens reminded me a lot of Versailles, albeit on a much smaller scale. Although we visited in March, I could sense the beauty of the area in total bloom. I thought how perfect Eastwell would be for a weekend away if I lived in London.

If you want to pamper yourself, check out the spa. Located in a separate modern building, this spa includes a heated pool, a hydrotherapy pool, a whirlpool, and a steam room. After the flight from the states, I reserved a flotation massage and was so glad that I did. As the masseur explained to me, 30 minutes of this treatment would be equal to a solid eight hours of sleep. I was skeptical, even while being wrapped in giant plastic that, in turn, would be filled with water. Once in the tank, I floated on the surface allowing the buoyancy to lull me to sleep and the plastic to gently massage my jet-lagged body. Thankfully I took this treatment on the day I arrived. By the end of the first day I was the most cheerful guy in our group. I admit that the process felt strange, but I would do it again.

The city of Canterbury is one of the oldest cities in England and known for its famous cathedral. Founded in 597 AD by St. Augustine, the city is the oldest bishopric in England. The cathedral was the site of the 12th century martyrdom of Thomas à Becket, Archbishop of Canterbury, plus friend and antagonist of Henry II. After Becket’s death and canonization, pilgrims flocked to the cathedral, as recounted in Geoffrey Chaucer’s bawdy medieval work, The Canterbury Tales. (See the 1964 film Becket before you go. Blue-eyed Peter O’Toole as Henry and honey-throated Richard Burton as Becket heat up the screen. As I recall, there were some definite homoerotic undertones.)

Many years later, after Henry VIII broke from the Pope and Rome in 1534, the position of Archbishop of Canterbury became the religious leader of the state religion, the Church of England.

Allow time to wander the small streets of Canterbury so you can enjoy the unique shopping area. It’s like stepping back into a time of life as it was lived centuries ago.

We visited Leeds Castle the next day. It is a MUST SEE! Take the tour to get the full effect of the “loveliest castle in the world.” The castle stands today because of the generosity of an American lady, Olive Wilson Filmer, later to become Lady Baillie. Surrounded by a moat, the castle was built nearly 900 years ago. From the cellar to the Queen’s rooms, it has hosted guests the likes of Edward VIII and Douglas Fairbanks, both junior and senior. Its most famous owner was Henry VIII.

About two hours away, the city of Winchester anchors the center of the South East of England. Visiting the Cathedral and the college, I felt transported to the land of Harry Potter. Seeing the students and faculty dressed in robes with their colors revealing their schools and studies, I was in awe. It was so very British.

Winchester is England ancient’s capital and former seat of King Alfred the Great. It is also believed by some historians to be the location of the legendary Camelot Court of King Arthur.
PHOTO COURESY OF GRAVETYE MANOR

Winchester is a popular spot for walking, as its streets are lined with small shops and the architecture is not to be missed. Its 11th century cathedral has been memorialized in verse and song. Its gardens are not quite as famous, but should be, especially Queen Eleanor’s Garden, a recreation of a 13th century “herbery” near the Great Hall of the castle. Winchester is not a huge city, so it is easy to walk through and enjoy.

A taste of tradition can be found at the fabulous pub, the multi-award winning Wykeham Arms. This place defies the tired old complaints about English cooking. The food here is fantastic and epitomizes the change that restaurants have been going through in England over the last 10 years. Wykeham Arms is quaint, busy and full of history. The team of cooks prepares a menu sourced entirely by fresh, local produce. The menu changes daily and the food is absolutely delicious.

In Winchester, we stayed at the Lainston House Hotel, which dates from the late 17th century. The hotel sits on 63 acres of land and offers luxurious rooms and plenty of on-site activities including golf and a stable. We stayed in the new addition where the showers are strong and the water hot. One of the best spas in England is about 45 minutes away; it is called simply The Spa and it was also fabulous.

That last night in the country we spent at Gravetye Manor near East Grinstead in West Sussex. The property is imposing yet inviting; a walk through the grounds of the 17th century estate is a must. It has one of the most beautiful gardens in England.

Over dinner (the best dinner on the trip), co-owner and general manager Andrew Russell challenged us to taste white wine in a red wine glass. He wanted to prove to us that the wine would have a better aroma as well as a different taste. It is true! As a wine lover, I was shocked. This was an unbelievable experience. On the whole my experience here was charming and personal, and it was the highlight of my trip in the country.

Located on the most gorgeous grounds with spectacular views of the hills, the Gravetye Manor is a place to return to again and again, like the rest of South East England.

 

SPEAKING OF RETURNING AND PAMPERING: LONDON & THE LANGHAM
If you decide to spend a few days in London at the end of your visit to South East England, continue your pampering at the five-star deluxe Langham Hotel in central London. It is located on Regent Street only five minutes from all the gay areas and a short walk to all major museums. “Attentive” isn’t a strong enough word for the lavish attention guests receive here. If I ever want to be spoiled again, this is the perfect place.

I stayed on the Club level where guests are treated like “queens.” With its own private concierge, chefs and recreation living/dining room, this section is all about luxury and refinement.

Want a limo? Ask and it awaits at the curb. Want a nosh? Continental breakfast and afternoon tea are provided at no extra charge. Need to relax? Check the spa, which is managed by Elizabeth Arden and offers both a pool and a gym. If you want a different type of relaxation, the complimentary bar is open until 10:30 pm.

The Club floor at the Langham is all-inclusive, so guests can entertain friends at no extra charge. Which is great, as you’re sure to attract many new friends once they find out where you’re staying.

But wait, the Club Floor is not even the height of the Langham’s luxury. If you can afford the luxury Infinity Suite at the Langham even for one day in your lifetime, book it. The rack rate is $8,000 per day. Whatever you imagine and more is available to you: Private kitchen, personal butler, chauffeured limousine, on-site attendants or a private spa experience par excellence.

Within the luxury suite that stretches the entire width of the top floor of the hotel, your private spa features a chromatherapy and hydrotherapy bath that can be adjusted to suit your mood and soothe your body. Colored light is projected into the bath to stimulate your body’s healing systems. For example, indigo blue will relax your nerves and promote serenity; yellow will boost your self-confidence and make you more alert. Meanwhile, the effervescent bubbles will caress your skin and make you feel like you’re bathing in champagne. Unbelievable? Try it for yourself the next time you want to experience the good life.

• www.visitbritain.com

www.visitlondon.com

www.continental.com

www.eastwellmanor.co.uk

www.canterbury.co.uk

www.canterbury-cathedral.org

www.leeds-castle.com

www.visitwinchester.co.uk

www.exclusivehotels.co.uk
(Lainston House Hotel)

www.gravetyemanor.co.uk

www.langhamhotels.com

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Copyright 2005 Pink Magazine